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The Besseggen ridge between Gjende and Bessvatnet.
Photo: Matej Drha

Jotunheimen, Norway

Besseggen - Norway's most popular ridge walk

A 14 km point-to-point ridge between two lakes of different colours, ending with a passenger ferry. The most-walked mountain trail in Norway, and one of the few that earns the reputation.

Published May 5, 2026 · Last updated May 5, 2026 · researched

Besseggen is a knife-edge ridge in Jotunheimen national park that separates the green-grey Gjende lake from the deep-blue Bessvatnet 400 metres higher. Roughly 60 000 hikers walk it every summer, more than any other mountain trail in Norway. It is famous for a reason - but also famous for being underestimated.

The standard direction is Memurubu → Gjendesheim, point-to-point with a passenger ferry at the start of the day. You can walk it the other way; most people find it easier the listed direction because the steep section is then a climb rather than a descent.

Gjende lake seen from the Besseggen ridge.

Photo: Mathis Garberg on Unsplash.

The day

StageDistanceNotes
Ferry Gjendesheim → Memurubu30 minBook in advance during peak summer
Climb to ridge4 km600 m gain, marked but loose footing
Ridge walk Veslfjellet to Besshø3 kmThe famous section - exposed, sometimes hands-on
Descent Bessvatnet col to Gjendesheim7 kmLong but easy gradient
End at Gjendesheim-Restaurant, beds if you’ve booked

Most healthy walkers complete the route in 6-8 hours. Aim to be on the 8 am or 9 am ferry; finishing in the dark is unpleasant and the weather often turns mid-afternoon.

The ridge section

This is the part Besseggen is famous for. The ridge narrows to roughly 2 metres in places, with Gjende 600 metres below on one side and Bessvatnet 400 metres below on the other. There is one section, just past Veslfjellet, where you put hands on rock to scramble up - confident scrambling, not technical climbing.

Anyone with vertigo should think carefully before booking. There is no easier alternative - once you start the ridge, the only way off is forward. People who freeze on the ridge cause significant search-and-rescue effort each summer.

When to go

PeriodStatus
Late June to mid-SeptemberTrail open, ferry running, all DNT cabins staffed
Mid-September to mid-OctoberTrail walkable in good weather; ferry on reduced schedule
Mid-October to mid-JuneSnow-locked; winter route requires guide

Heavy snow years can keep the ridge unsafe until early July. Check the Jotunheimen national park website before booking.

Cabins and food

This is classic DNT cabin country. You can:

  • Day-walk - return to Oslo or your accommodation in the evening
  • Stay one night at Gjendesheim (staffed DNT cabin) before or after
  • Stay one night at Memurubu (privately run lodge, similar price)
  • Multi-day - extend to Glitterheim, Memurubu, and Gjendebu in the wider Jotunheimen circuit

The Memurubu lodge is the standard pre-walk overnight; you take the morning ferry from there to nowhere, climb the ridge, and arrive at Gjendesheim by car or bus that evening.

What to bring

  • Trekking poles - essential on the descent
  • Sturdy boots with ankle support
  • Layers - the ridge is exposed; a calm valley can be a 60 km/h wind on top
  • Sunglasses - the snow patches reflect at altitude even in August
  • Lunch + 2 litres water - there is no food after the morning ferry

Common questions

Is it as scary as people say?

The exposed ridge is genuinely exposed. If you have any history of vertigo, this is not the right trail. If you don’t, the scary section is shorter than the photos suggest - about 30-45 minutes of attentive walking. Most healthy adults handle it without trouble.

Can children do it?

Norway-confident kids over 12 with hill experience can - but read the ridge description above first. Younger children should not attempt it.

What about dogs?

Dogs on lead are technically allowed but the loose footing on the ridge makes it stressful for the dog and the owner. Most local advice says to skip Besseggen with a dog and pick another Jotunheimen day-walk.

Is the ferry reliable?

Yes - it runs hourly during peak season. In poor weather it can be cancelled, in which case the alternative is to walk the full 22 km loop, which is a much longer day. Have a flexible plan.

Can I do it in a day from Oslo?

Yes, by car (3 hours each way) - but it makes for an exhausting day. Most experienced visitors stay one night near Gjendesheim or Memurubu before the walk.

Sources: Norwegian Trekking Association, Jotunheimen national park information service.

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